FINGER STRESS FRACTURES IN YOUTH ELITE ROCK CLIMBERS

Lumbrical tears in rock climbers.

Performance rock climbing places high demands on the hand and may lead to specific injuries. In a "one-finger-pocket" hold, the interphalangeal joints remain in 20-40 degrees flexion. To increase the maximum force of the holding finger by the quadriga effect, the interphalangeal joints of the adjacent fingers become almost maximally flexed. Holding a "one-finger-pocket" with the ring or small f...

Fingertip injuries in rock climbers.

The sport of rock climbing has undergone a significant change in recent times with technically harder climbs being attempted more often. This has meant that climbers have taken to more training including weight training, using artificial climbing walls and the more traditional 'bouldering' i.e. training on natural outcrops and boulders. This increase in standards has led to injuries associated ...

Title Page Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers Running head: Haemodynamic kinetics in elite rock climbers

Changes in EMG and Finger Force with Repeated Hangs from the Hands in Rock Climbers

The nature and degree of fatigue in muscles that control finger position during repeated sustained efforts in rock climbing have not been described. The purpose of this study was to identify changes in maximum hang time and forearm electromyogram (EMG) during repeated maximum duration hangs from a simulated rock feature. A second objective was to determine the effect of different recovery times...

Finger injuries in extreme rock climbers. Assessment of high-resolution ultrasonography.

Dynamic high-resolution ultrasonography findings obtained in 34 extreme rock climbers with finger injuries were compared with those in 20 healthy volunteers. Thicknesses of the flexor tendon and A-2 flexor tendon pulley system were measured at the base of the proximal phalanx. The distance between the tendon and phalanx was evaluated with the finger in extension and in forced flexion as a measu...